Taiwan – An Englishman in Hanoi

“New York is a Jungle and I want to know what kind of animal I am – and I’m a fucking Lion”
Vincenzo

Recently, whilst staying at the Treasure Hill Artist Village in Taipei, I met the combative but brilliant Street-Artist, painter and storyteller Vincenzo.

Vincenzo originally hails all the way from Napoli in Italy, but has been living an itinerant existence around the Pacific Islands and South-East Asia for some time.

More recently, he has spent time in Kuala Lumpar, Bangkok, Vietnam, Taipei and more extensive periods in Malaysia.

His mannerisms are rough; he seems to be built of the mould of rough Italian clay and he has the bombast and air of a boxer. Deep down he is a lover however, as was revealed slowly from our chats.

God drives you to create. You create good energy. You make the people happy. The meaning of painting on the street, it makes people happy; the meaning of life is to spread happiness.
Vincenzo

Vincenzo uses Mixed Media to make his Art. He uses fabric, paints on historic maps of Taiwan and has a series of iconic characters such as General Custer and the Lakota War Leader Crazy Horse

Vincenzo is as much a product of Brooklyn, as he is of Napoli. He constantly told me, “I speak Brooklyn brother, not English.”

In fact, he first learnt Spanish through working with Latinos in the restaurant industry in New York, and then picked up a street-dialect of English; heavy on expletives and saturated in a thick Brooklyn accent.

He is the living embodiment of an on-the-streets style education; his English and Spanish essentially being ‘picked up’ rather than learnt through any formal classes, in various restaurants he worked at.

He now creates and shapes his art on the streets of Taiwan.

(By the time Article was published, Vincenzo had returned to his favourite spot on Peel Street in Hong Kong)

The streets are a symbolic union of creativity and a battleground for survival for Vincenzo.

“God is around me, and he says this guy is a bad guy, but not too bad.”
Vincenzo, donning his best Rocky Balboa persona

When I met Vincenzo, I instantly bonded with him. His down-to-earth, Italian mannerisms and language were a refreshing, and almost shocking, change from usual dialogues in Taiwan. It brought back pleasant memories of my time in Milan.

A novel idea popped into my head; I decided to try using the Marcel Proust questionnaire to guide our conversation. This gave me the benefit of having a structured conversation with a man where, at any moment, the conversation could be derailed. The Questionnaire itself is essentially akin to a 19th-century personality test; a list of questions designed to get a richer understanding of your subject.

We talked about the meaning of art, how to survive by creating on the streets, and we touched on Vincenzo’s fascinating, but meandering life – from the depths of Napoli and Southern Italy all the way to New York, at the age of 28.

So with that said let’s jump into the questions;

What is your idea of perfect happiness?

“Making my art is not automatically, but it is fluent – I only need the space. Making Art is a present from God.”

Is Art Divine?

“It’s like God drives you to create. When you make art you create good energy. At the same time you make people happy. The real meaning of painting on the streets is to make people happy. They pass for a second and they see all this shit on the street – but the art makes them happy – that is my goal.

I think what is Art? Art is to create a good mood, a good vibration.

The only condition to be happy is to make others Happy. My art is a way to make people happy.”

Vincenzo’s set up on the streets – whether in Malaysia, Rome or Tainan, you can witness his persona and craft all in one package

What is your most marked characteristic?

(For this question I had to use Google Translate to put it into Italian)

“I don’t speak English brother, I speak Brooklyn! I don’t know what this means, I learnt to speak english in Brooklyn, in a kitchen, brother! I never study anything. I learnt Spanish first in New York, and then English! Because I work in the fucking kitchen brother!

(After reading in Italian) My characteristic is to be on my own, and with God. I only trust God. I saw enough motherfuckers, but someone I trust, I trust God.

Why did you start working so young? You started working at 14 in a Kitchen in Napoli.

“Oh when I was 14, I was already old man! I knew kids that worked in the kitchen they were 9 or 10! Fuck man, I was a big guy at 14. Crazy man! Napoli is crazy. In my generation 14 you’re already fucking old to work.

I went to New York because it was a dream. I have a fucking good job in Italy – new car, brand new scooter. But I wanted to see what animal I am. I think New York is like to live in a movie, and I want to see. New York is a fucking jungle man, and I want to know what animal I am. And I realise I’m a fucking lion man!”

Vincenzo posing on the streets of Hong Kong

How did you go to New York?

I had a Ford Gear, I had a Vespa. I have a nice car. I had good money in Italy – so I go!

I was involved in a beautiful love story.

No, I was never Married to be honest. Oh hello, first of fall, I work in this place – this man was an Architect, and I knew his restaurant was open only for dinner. So I have a very nice job, because I go to work 3 o’clock in the afternoon.. Open only 5 days a week.

Very rich, nice customers. I make 1400 euros every month, 35 years a go! And I only pay 200 euros a month!

I have a very comfortable life man.

So why did you decide to give up this fairytale life for New York City?

I was not very happy, but I have everything I need.

I only want to tell you when I go to New York I have 20 million Lire, its like 10,000 euro.

I didn’t go there broke. I had money man.

Apart from the money, why else did you think “Yeah I love it here in Rome, but I want something different?

I remember the boss of the restaurant said to me, “For some things I understand you, for some things I cannot understand you”. He said you have a nice job, everybody like you, even the customer like you. Because it was like a family. Only 35 people for this restaurant.

But I want to see the world. I want to be in New York. I don’t know if I want to travel, but I want to be in New York.

Did you have friends in New York?

No, I got no-one. I decided go on my own. I live there for a decade, from 1990 to 2000. Then I spent a year in California. And California is fucking boring man. You were born in 1990, I moved to New York (in 1990).

February 2001, I decide bus to Miami. I stay there awhile, and then I go L.A.

In fact, when they attacked the Twin Towers, I was in California. I was not in New York anymore.

Did you meet Andy Warhol in New York?

I wasn’t involved in art. I was a chef. I was there at the opening of Guggenheim Museum. I was there! I meet the architect – I cooked for them. It was a beautiful month.

What do you consider your greatest achievement?

To be a Father.

You know, if you make a mistake you need to pay. I always say this. It means, if you do some shit in the life, you need to pay. Not if you make some shit, you run. You need to face it and solve it. That’s the biggest achievement in my life.

What learning curves are you referring to?

For example, my daughter was the most beautiful accident in my life. I never planned to be a father, it was an accident. I need to fix this. The most beautiful accident.

My wife is from Vietnam. She is a refugee. You call them ‘Boat People’. (In the late 1970s, hundreds of thousands of refugees fled to Hong Kong by boat from war-torn Southeast Asia and Vietnam)

Who are these ‘boat people‘?

These people escaped from Vietnam by Boat. My wife came to Hong Kong.

In the 1970s many Vietnamese made the arduous journey across the South China Sea. Many would die on this voyage. These ‘Boat People’, as Vincenzo referred to, were seeking sanctuary in British ruled Hong Kong.

How did you meet and fall in love with a Refugee from Vietnam?

Well I’m a Napolitano. It’s not hard for me to catch the women. Hong Kong was safe for her. At the time, Hong Kong was British, and they helped them.

Do you have a deep love for Hong Kong?

I’ll be honest – I don’t love Hong Kong. But I love my daughter. I never fell in love with New York, but I love my daughter.

She’s 20, she’s smart, she’s strong, she’s intelligent. And now I feel I can enjoy my life as an artist. It’s not difficult to understand my way.

I’m a street fighter. I smash anyone who says I don’t care for my daughter.

It sounds like to me, you had to learn to fight at a young age. Either in Brooklyn or in Napoli. Would you agree with this?

I’m a respectful person. But if people make trouble. It’s automatic for me. It’s a disease man. There’s no medicine. I cannot stop. I can’t just go to the Doctor. I can’t fucking stop.

Especially in New York. One guy from the first floor. I said, ‘if you don’t shoot, I come up and broke you.’

I feel people just shoot, they don’t talk, they just shoot. So I think maybe no, he didn’t have a gun.

Vincenzo stayed at the Fuqi Hostel in Tainan. The owner took pity when he saw he was struggling to sell his artwork on the street. He organised for Vincenzo to paint on the walls of the Hostel with the help of a girl working there.

What is your greatest fear?

If I cannot make Art anymore. I think this is my biggest fear, if I cannot produce art anymore.

Maybe if you asked me 20 years ago, I give you a different answer. But if I can’t create, then what do I live for?

Which historical figure do you most identify with?

I like the film The Deerhunter. I grew up with my Grandparents. I never had a childhood or many friends. But I like this character from The Deerhunter.

Are you the first to make art in your family?

I am the only one.

My Grandfather was funny. He fought in both World Wars.

In the Second World War, he brought his son with him. He was only 17. And he died, he never made it back home. This was my Uncle. I never met him. He was my Father’s brother.

My Grandad survived the War. Then my Grandmother stopped talking to my Grandfather. (She blamed her son’s death on her husband)

On Bulu the Cat, you can witness Vincenzo’s use of fabric

Who are your living heroes?

I only have one hero – and that is God.

I’m a difficult man to be with. When I decide to go – then I go.

Thank you for your time Vincenzo

*Alishan’s Majestical Sea of Clouds at Erwanping*

Recently, on a whim, I made my way to Alishan National Park.

Having talked to my former roommates about the Alishan Forest Railway, which they recommended, I finally decided to take the ride. Whilst my erstwhile friend Paul took a detour to Tainan to see a friend, I made a rash, last-minute decision – sitting alone in Paul’s hotel downstairs – to go. The idea of the train emerged (as ideas always seem to forge their way into my psyche at such moments) and I did a quick review of the logistics;

High Speed Rail to Chiayi -> Next day take the Alishan Forest Train at 9am – work my way along its scenic route. The rest, at this point, still unknown.

The trip that materialised was a hybrid train – bus trip, which eventually took me to Alishan National Park. Up in Alishan I felt an intense connection to younger years spent Skiing the Alps with my family. The cold air, with the hotels and resort accommodation all huddled together, was great. The key difference was the price. Alishan is affordable for a back-packer budget traveller such as me – only in Vietnam have I ever escaped anything that doesn’t resemble budget travel!

Anyway, the first part of the trip started down at Sea Level; Chiayi. Here you take the Forest Train Line which meanders its way uphill. That is if you can find the fairly inconspicuous ticket office. The ticket office can be found next to the entrance of the station, a small window with a man sitting behind it. It has all the feel of Harry Potter’s Hogwarts Express. One could quite easily walk by and never notice the window, with the little man sitting inside. It really has a Platform 9 and 3 quarters feel about it.

The 70km Train, built by the Japanese, plunges through 48 tunnels and crosses 74 bridges, rising to an incredible altitude of 2451 metres, from just 30.

I took the train up the mountain and as we stopped at each station we climbed higher. I followed our progress on the map I was handed by the ticket office. (This can be seen below).

Chiayi is at 30 metres. The next stop is Zhuqi at 127 metres. And then Jiaoliping Station at 997 metres. Jiaoliping is noted in the guidebook as being a “Village with a nostalgic grocery store”. I was not sure how a grocery store could be nostalgic, but it stated underneath:

Nowadays, only an old grocery shop remains, providing a service for villagers and tourists alike, conveying a sense of nostalgia.
Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office

Provided by the Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office

As I was riding the train, I was under the impression that it would ride all the way up to Alishan at 2216 metres. But after speaking to a Taiwanese girl on the train, I realised it would stop at Fenquihu, at 1403 metres. This was no matter, and enhanced the trip, as Fenquihu was a beautiful village. Highly enjoyable to wander with many culinary delights – including the most delicious doughnuts you will ever try!

The guidebook describes it as thus: “This is the largest intermediate station on the railway used to be a division point where steam locomotives were maintained, prepared and refueled.” This time it even had nostalgic stairways;

Because of the railway, Fenquihu became the center of the area and is renowned for its old streets, railway lunch boxes, and bamboo. The stairways of the old street provide a nostalgic atmosphere. To enjoy the forest, visitors can take a walk on the circular trail around the village.
Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office

From Fenquihu I took a bus to the Alishan National Park. And from there I had an amazing trip; hiking, making friends, taking the sunrise train to Mount Ogasawara – an incredibly beautiful way to start the day – and all around enjoying the crisp mountain air.

Anyway, because I had befriended the lady who worked at the hotel, and she told me she could take me on some special hikes and routes; I decided to come back the next week. I wanted to enjoy the scenery again, and see what adventures and new routes awaited me.

On the 2nd trip, my companion took me on a hike to Lulingshan, which eventually reaches the Jade Mountain Trailhead. Jade Mountain is the tallest mountain in Taiwan, at 3952 metres high.

Arduous and fulfilling, with Mr. Titi, the colourful bird, spending most of his time diving into my bag to look for Peanut Butter.

Right after we had stopped to take photos at the Jade Mountain Trailhead, I grew wide-eyed with wonder at a climber descending who looked like some kind of Nepalese Sherpa.

We started uphill, and suddenly I felt out of breath. My chest seemed to tighten. I stopped, took food and water.

My companion was saying, ‘its not far, just over this hill’. That small distance suddenly felt like Everest.

I kept going, more for her sake than mine.

I became more and more dizzy, and was climbing the steps on my hands and knees.

Thankfully we ran into an elderly taiwanese couple who said they would escort me down to the Jade Mountain Trailhead, and I would meet my companion later.

Thank god for this couple. The man was so alive with the views he saw at every moment. Even though I felt awful, it was still as if I was walking amongst the clouds of heaven.

*This man owned a Green Tea Store. Alishan Green Tea is the best in Taiwan. This was his adorable daughter*

This man was 75 years old, fit as a fiddle, brought me countless pieces of Guava, and really stood for what I see as the quintessential element of the Taiwanese people; Goodness.

In his own small way, and in his pure joy of the Mountains, he had helped an Englishman stumbling about, out of breath. A 75-year old guardian angel.

Altitude Sickness happens a lot out here, but it isn’t nice. It hasn’t happened to me before, but has given me more respect for these mountains.

Will I go again? 100%

Category: Taiwan

Artist Profile; The Italian Lion Vincenzo

Altitude Sickness in Alishan