Neruda and Rimbaud

For an Englishman who only has a rudimentary grasp of Spanish (albeit I have dusted off the grammar books recently), it may be dangerous territory for me to be writing a piece on the Latin American giant Neruda and the French Rimbaud. For my French aspirations, perhaps the phrase L’espoir est éternel is best used in this case… Hope springs eternal, that is

Or perhaps I can say, my french lessons came to a whole n’importe quoi

(To those diligent enough to look up the translations I salute you!)

My knowledge on Neruda was limited; I know of him mainly through The Motorcycle Diaries where the two protagonists, including Che, would often quote him as their voyage continued. I had also heard of the famed Twenty Love Poems and a Song of Despair.

In all honesty, I found it quite trite and sentimental, and did not enjoy it too much.

Laura’s dusty old Neruda Collection

However, from my brief glimpse of time in the Sierra Morena, with my nomadic friends, the continuing hippie existence, the Russian girls and the conversations on philosophy, politics and nature that punctuated my time there; I quite fortuitously happened upon an old book of Neruda that Laura had amongst her extensive book collection. Other topics were child development, psychology, RD Laing and even the much-loved Socialist musician / artist / Author Woody Guthrie.

The above-pictured collection of Neruda’s poems was my half-hearted attempt at re-learning Spanish whilst living, very much in an English speaking house, in the heart of the Sierra.

Going through my musings and translations at the time, I did make quite an interesting note about the Spanish language; nacer con un pan debajo del brazo – which roughly translates; ‘to be born with a loaf of bread under your arm.’ It was my impression that this essentially meant the same as the phrase to be born with a silver spoon. However, it turns out after further analysis, that instead the term is connected to the birth of a child. The feelings of happiness and good fortune from the birth of a child – a baby is born with a loaf of bread under his arm – is a closer translation.

For Whom the Bell Tolls…

Coming back to Neruda.

Turns out I wrote down a fair few of his poems, and this is one I really enjoyed. I hope you like it too.

Fable of the Mermaids and The Drunks – P. Neruda

All these men were there inside
When she entered, utterly naked
They had been drinking, and begin to spit at her
Recently come from the river, she understood nothing.
She as a mermaid who had lost her way.
The taunts flowed over her glistening flesh.
Obscenities drenched her golden breasts 
gleaming once more like a white stone in the rain; 
and without a backward look, she swam once more 
Swam toward nothingness, swam toward her dying

This struck me firstly as quite surrealistic. The poetry of Rimbaud, Dylan Thomas and even Charles Bukowski are by turns Surrealistic and abstract. However, I did not know Neruda had this particular strain as well. The poem seems to encapsulate ideas on the loss of innocence and perhaps even the attitude of locals to foreigners. That which is foreign is dangerous. There do seem to be undertones of xenophobia hidden here.

Another poem of his that I made a note of was the poem And How Long?

This poem is longer, and immediately made me think of my amigo Carlos. The man whom is eternally on a quest for answers. He travels far and wide in the search of such answers. Then on not being understood in the source of his quest, decides to cut his losses and return home.

And How Long?

How long does a man live, after all?

Does he live a thousand days, or one only?                 A week, or several centuries?

How long does a man spend dying?         What does it mean to say ‘for ever’?

*****************

Lost in these preoccupations
I set myself to clear things up.

I sought out knowledgeable priests,
I waited for them after their rituals,
I watched them when they went their ways
to visit God and the Devil.

They wearied of my questions.
They on their part knew very little;
they were little more than administrators.

     Medical men received me
in between consultations,
a scalpel in each hand,
saturated in aureomycin,
busier each day.

As far as I could tell from their talk,
the problem was as follows:

it was not so much the death of a microbe –
they went down by the ton – 

but the few which survived showed signs of perversity

They left me so startled
that I sought out the grave-diggers.

I went to the rivers where they burn
enormous painted corpses,
tiny bony bodies,

emperors with an aura of terrible curses,
women snuffed out at a stroke

by a wave of cholera.
There were whole beaches of dead
and ashy specialists.

When I got the chance I asked them a slew of questions.
They offered to burn me: it was the only thing they knew.

In my own country the
undertakers answered me, between drinks:
‘Get yourself a good woman
and give up this nonsense.’

I never saw people so happy
Raising their glasses they sang,

toasting health and death.
They were huge fornicators

I returned home, much older
after crossing the world.
Now I question nobody.
But I know less every day.

As you can see this is, by its nature, a metaphysical poem. The narrator is longing for answers; answers his heart can’t seem to give and the outside world seems too indifferent to answer. He travels far, but returns empty-handed, or perhaps even with more questions. However, this time he allows them to bubble up within.

Lastly, a documentary worth watching on Rimbaud, if you have the time (time has been given a new conception recently; in its abundance). Stumbled on this whilst sick one day, and it later inspired hitch-hiking travels.

Englishman in Seville

For if there is a sin against Life, it consists perhaps not so much in despairing of Life as in hoping for another Life and in eluding the implacable grandeur of this Life.

– Albert Camus

Englishman in Aracena would be a much more accurate description right now. As this is where I am.

Aracena is a town out in the ‘wilderness’ of Spain’s forgotten southern Sierra. Or rather not forgotten. Never forgotten by those who have known it. Or those who have set new eyes on it, like I have.

Unparalled beauty; rolling hills which seem to lurch and lunge, and pulsate at you. This feels like Pan’s Labyrinths fantasy world. There is something Surrealistic about it. I can view it through my eyes, and take in all it’s lustre, and at the same time Rimbaud’s lines play like music in the back of my mind. Walking around this land on a sunday walk with Jake, Laura, Dasha and Tanya; I was thinking about Rimbaud and the life he chose. Pennilessly travelling by foot through Europe, similar to what Carlos does. Or did.

This is Carlos’ land after all, and it was because of him that I first arrived here from Barcelona.

The sun caught in the water, on a sunday walk

The Sierra’s full name is the Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche Natural Park. It consists of many of these little Pueblo’s that are white; all the buildings and houses, the Ayuntamiento (town hall), the churches – all white. Occasionally broken by the odd blue church roof. I reasoned they painted it all white to keep it cool in the summer, since this is in the scorching centre of Andalusia. Chefchaouen in Morrocco, famous as the Blue City, was painted this colour for its apparent cooling effect. The same with India’s blue city, Jodhpur.

But hang on….

What’s going on?

Who are these people? Why Am I in Andalusia? And why am I blogging on a much disused WordPress page that was set up to document my time living in Hanoi, Vietnam (and which in reality only lead to a pathetic two posts my whole time there) …

Well, I don’t know exactly if I’ve been looking to escape life or embrace a new future, but I would say my time here in the beauty of this land, with its sumptuous fresh air, has allowed for restoration. Perhaps rejuvenation too.

The view, by dusk, from the Villa

For those of you who want to know what I have been upto (the irony that no-one, or perhaps no-one I know will read this, is not lost on me) since the new year dawned; well, I can give a little glimpse into my life here. Like opening my window upon waking in my little room and letting the morning in, with its blue or foggy light, I will open my window now through WordPress and let the world in.

Seville basically looks like Miami through this Google Assistant Touch-up

I came down here from Barcelona because I spotted a £13 flight to Seville, and thought this is the perfect chance to see my long-lost Amigo Carlos, whom I haven’t seen since he visited me for a few days in Groningen.

Mostly, I was staying at his Mum’s house, but I also visited his Dad’s small farm, where his two sisters were also living. As well as Carlos’s father and siblings there were two dogs, a militant Goose, a handful of sheep and about a dozen cats. The Goose sized me up as soon as I arrived and decided to gauge the hierarchy. Initially he went at me, neck agog, face swooped down low, hissing at me, with the wings arched in that attack position geese and swans take.

I made a mistake. I ran away. He had the upper ground. Carlos said to me, “If you keep on like that, he will think he is in charge, and you will have a problem the whole time you are here, Tommy.” So I picked up a stick, and tried to hold my nerve as I moved towards him, nerves of steel. He stood still longer than I anticipated and although I swung the stick through the air as a few warning swings, I almost lost my nerve as he stood hissing, until right at the last moment he bolted and waddled away in a flurry of feather and anxiety.

He left me alone after this. It may seem primitive or even mean, but this is the way of the Granja, the way of the beasts.

We took walks. Long walks. All afternoon into evening and the beginning of dusk. Walking from Carlos father’s house in Galaroza to Fuenteheridos, or from Carlos mother’s house in Aracena to Los Marines. We stopped at Los Marines one picturesque day, when the sun was high, and the white buildings almost seemed blue from the reflecting sky. We stopped at a bar in an open plaza, and took a caña in the sun. And some Tapas. There were a few other country/hippie looking folk at a table near us and quite a few people sat at the tables at a nearby bar. There was a buzz of Andalusian discussion. I remember saying to Carlos, “Ahh this is the easy life my friend. This is the good life.”

One of Sevilles majestic parks

And it was. It is still magnificent too, although a little different now. It felt like a holiday in that moment, and it wasn’t until I was amongst the nature in the Sierra, walking and talking endlessly with Carlos, that I realised how much I needed this. This break. From the burnt ashes of the dismal end of 2019, truly dismal, to the present day; much has changed.

As of now, I am living with Laura, a very cool lady originally from London who was born and socialised herself into the mix of Hampstead artists and musicians. She was a good friend of none other than Joe Strummer from The Clash, and often speaks of him. Her ex-husband is a musician, and he played with many famous artists, including Strummer himself with Joe Strummer & the Mescaleros; and Moby. He collaborated with Moby on the landmark album Play.

So these days I spend my time usually very busy. Laura is a force-to-be-reckoned with, loves to keep busy and keep her household full of people; quite often a bustle of activity.

Carlos, looking Sanguine

We talk of music a lot, the ills of capitalism (Laura is pretty anti-system and with one sweeping remark will compare Boris Johnson with Putin and then state how we’re all in the same boat under different circumstances, and without a revolution we’re all damned), child education/development and of course cultural differences between Russia and the Western world.

Why Russia?

Well there are two girls staying here as well as me, in Laura’s beautiful house which was bought for her by her mother. The two girls contacted Laura through a website called HelpX which I had not heard of before, but seems to be another incarnation of Woofing. You sign up as a member which enables you to work your way round the world on different people’s farms. They plan on venturing to Cypress after their time with Laura.

I will dearly miss the food here ….

The girls are Dasha and Tanya. They are both musicians. And filmmakers. Their music videos are therefore very high quality. The songs too are pretty catchy; naturally they are sung in Russian. Dasha is 33 and has a basic grasp of English to the extent that you can have a somewhat broken conversation with her. She will also translate for Tanya. Tanya is 38 and has never left Russia before now, which struck me as phenomenal. Imagine being 38 and never having left your country! Of course the shock is perhaps more for me, a man who seems to endlessly bounce from country to country.

Dasha and Tanya. Ignore my sunblind horror-face

And the last thing I should mention; indeed perhaps the most important aspect of living with Laura for over two weeks, has been the kids.

Laura is an English teacher herself, a very good one. Creative, crafty – the children will often be building something as a vessel to learning the language. For example, her younger kids built a weather mobile with a rainbow and cut-outs for rain, sun, wind etc. And her elder children; many of whom are the brothers or sisters of the younger lot; are right now engaged in producing a puppet-theatre play. Laura has been using Dasha’s creative abilities to draw & paint the puppets, and set. Entrepreneurial, as always. (I have also been doing some fabric drawings for the Set at Laura’s request).

I have been helping her with the kids, preparing resources and doing Teaching Assistant-type work. It’s really solidified in my mind how much I enjoy this work, or at least working with children. When the work is creative it can be very enjoyable.

Some of the great books Laura has on Child Development / Psychology

Of course there is so much you cannot put into words; the living dynamics, getting to know the people you live with on a deeper level; the new music and films you’ve been introduced too; the card games with Jake (a former HelpX to Laura, now staying in her Villa); the occasional visits from Laura’s polite German friend Peter and his wife MJ; the work outside on the fence at the Villa – trying to reclaim the ground which is being lost to the neighbouring Sheep farmer, whilst the two dogs Lunar and Lykka jump over the fence, eat the food laid out for the Bulls, or antagonise a lost sheep.

My fabric pen illustration for the background of the Set for the Puppet-show

It has been truly great in many ways. I have learnt a lot. For the teaching, and much more. Some things have materialised from this experience I could not have believed.

Anyway, enough has been said for one post now. So happy reading, happy travels and happy life!

I will try to not let this blog fall back into abject misery once again.

Goodnight folks!

The beautiful Los Marines. As I walked towards the Church to take the photo, the gulls soared skywards in a magnificent gift of timing and fortune