Suicide and the Soul

Kieran was absolutely adored by students, as well as his fellow teachers. His favourite students were often those who were difficult for others to deal with. He was remarkably empathetic, patient and kind. Children also loved his weird and wonderful sense of humour.

From Remembering Kieran Greening

I’m not sure why exactly, but over the past couple of years death came into my life. Is it because turning 30 can be said to be midlife? No, surely too early. A midlife crisis?

First, there was Kieran, a much loved teacher I know from my time in Vietnam. He had died some years ago actually, but I only found out last year. His death affected me quite deeply.

I didn’t know him too well, but I had shared that particular bubble of existence in Hanoi, where all the English teachers poured in, enjoying the decadent lifestyle our salary and obvious wealth disparity offered us.

We lived like Fitzgerald, Hemingway and Picasso in 1920s Paris; like Montparnasse in its hedonistic heyday.

Kieran’s death however, was surrounded in surreal circumstances: A motorcycle trip to the mountains with a friend. He chose to go swimming. His body was never found, he most likely drowned.

Then came the outpourings of grief. Other teacher’s wrote so lovingly and movingly of him. His kids all adored him. He was a larger than life character, and he left many loved ones behind.

As I said, I didn’t know him well, but there were times when I was socialising and drinking with groups of people where he’d been present. Memorably, a night at Tây Hồ Lake, near my house in Hanoi. A typical Hanoian scene; an outdoors Hot Pot, where the food was grilled on a warmed piece of slate – butter coagulating and bubbling on its surface as we grilled fresh prawns. One of my flatmates was falling around laughing as Kieran talked to her. She was very animated by his company.

And then here in Taiwan, on the 14th of December, my friend contacted me to say her friend had committed suicide.

His name was Mr. Green.

I was very shocked.

I had only met him once. After spending the day with my Taiwanese friend, where we had swam in the sea off the east coast and visited an outdoors hot spring, we went to visit his bar.

His bar was vibrant and cool. It was small but felt classy. A nice interior; modern. There seemed to be a theme of a London pub. He had Beefeater Gin. His English wasn’t great, and my Chinese is awful, but we bonded over different alcoholic beverages, as one only can at a bar.

We very much enjoyed the night, and he seemed vivacious and full of life.

So when my friend messaged me in December to tell me the news, it came as a huge shock.

She mentioned medication for depression. She had attended his funeral. Yuli is a small town on the east coast; the community had been pretty hard hit by the news. She told me how the town elders had gathered around the town with the Mayor, and speeches were given for Mr. Green. They wanted to console the community and perhaps comfort his soul. He died in what can only be described as quite violent circumstances.

At that time in my life, I had not long finished reading Norwegian Wood. Now, I look back on it, it is quite a dark book. There are two suicides. The narrator has to bear the burden of both of them. It is also a very deep novel. In fact, in later years, I can hardly recall a novel which dove so deep into the inner realm of the heart. Not love though. No, none of that. Emotions such as longing, or recognition of oneself in another, rescuing a doomed lover; and more than any other feeling, loneliness.

Haruki Murakami

When I first started the novel, I thought the dialogue was poor and the writing at times saturated with an overwhelming sentimentality – the kind of novel teenage girls like.

This is all true, and the ubiquitous, meaningless sex seems frivolous. I believe in many ways it takes away from the story completely. However, it has its moments.

After my friend messaged me, I knew I had to say something. My mind turned to Norwegian Wood. So I said:

I believe everyone is magical in this world, and we are beings made of magic. Unfortunately, Mr Green may have lost the ability to see his magic, but it doesn’t mean others didn’t see it. I felt he was kind, honest and good. The circumstances were tragic, but it doesn’t mean his life didn’t have any meaning. And no doubt enriched many others.

I hope he is at peace now.

I stand by that; I believe we are creatures of magic.

My friend mentioned she was reading Suicide and the Soul by James Hillmann, which looks at how our soul – which is eternal – acts in the face of Suicide.

Suicide and the Soul by James Hillmann

In Norwegian Wood Murakami talks of Death. Specifically suicide. The narrator tries to make sense of the passing of his best friends,

Death exists, not as the opposite but as a part of life. By living our lives, we nurture death.”

Norwegian Wood Huraki Murakami

This seems like a cliche. But surrounded by his other words and the intense feelings of the narrator, it stands out.

The memories would slam against me like the waves of an incoming tide, sweeping my body along to some strange new place- a place where I lived with the dead. Death in that place was not a decisive element that brought life to an end. There, death was but one of many elements comprising life.

I felt no sadness in that strange place.

Norwegian Wood Haruki Murakami

It gives the overall impression Murakami had deeply considered death.

It also has anger. The kind of anger that is very believable.

Where the dialogue in this novel sometimes feels unrealistic, the parts about Death are the opposite.

Once upon a time, you dragged a part of me into the world of the dead, and now Naoko has dragged another pat of me into that world.

Norwegian Wood

This is the characteristic anger that often affects the family affected by a suicide. You often hear the left-behind use the word ‘selfish’ to describe such acts.

My friend however, was just trying to understand how his soul would find peace. Especially because, at the end, he seemed in such a frantically destructive mode.

I hope his soul is at peace now.

Without meaning it to be, I suppose this post is an ode to you Mr Green. May your spirit make sense of the afterworld better than you could make sense of this one. As Murakami called it, “this imperfect world of the living.”

Altitude Sickness in Alishan

Alishan’s Majestical Sea of Clouds at Erwanping

Recently, on a whim, I made my way to Alishan National Park.

Having talked to my former roommates about the Alishan Forest Railway, which they recommended, I finally decided to take the ride. Whilst my erstwhile friend Paul took a detour to Tainan to see a friend, I made a rash, last-minute decision – sitting alone in Paul’s hotel downstairs – to go. The idea of the train emerged (as ideas always seem to forge their way into my psyche at such moments) and I did a quick review of the logistics;

High Speed Rail to Chiayi -> Next day take the Alishan Forest Train at 9am – work my way along its scenic route. The rest, at this point, still unknown.

The trip that materialised was a hybrid train – bus trip, which eventually took me to Alishan National Park. Up in Alishan I felt an intense connection to younger years spent Skiing the Alps with my family. The cold air, with the hotels and resort accommodation all huddled together, was great. The key difference was the price. Alishan is affordable for a back-packer budget traveller such as me – only in Vietnam have I ever escaped anything that doesn’t resemble budget travel!

Anyway, the first part of the trip started down at Sea Level; Chiayi. Here you take the Forest Train Line which meanders its way uphill. That is if you can find the fairly inconspicuous ticket office. The ticket office can be found next to the entrance of the station, a small window with a man sitting behind it. It has all the feel of Harry Potter’s Hogwarts Express. One could quite easily walk by and never notice the window, with the little man sitting inside. It really has a Platform 9 and 3 quarters feel about it.

The Alishan Forest Railway

The 70km Train, built by the Japanese, plunges through 48 tunnels and crosses 74 bridges, rising to an incredible altitude of 2451 metres, from just 30.

I took the train up the mountain and as we stopped at each station we climbed higher. I followed our progress on the map I was handed by the ticket office. (This can be seen below).

Chiayi is at 30 metres. The next stop is Zhuqi at 127 metres. And then Jiaoliping Station at 997 metres. Jiaoliping is noted in the guidebook as being a “Village with a nostalgic grocery store”. I was not sure how a grocery store could be nostalgic, but it stated underneath:

Nowadays, only an old grocery shop remains, providing a service for villagers and tourists alike, conveying a sense of nostalgia.

Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office
Provided by the Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office

As I was riding the train, I was under the impression that it would ride all the way up to Alishan at 2216 metres. But after speaking to a Taiwanese girl on the train, I realised it would stop at Fenquihu, at 1403 metres. This was no matter, and enhanced the trip, as Fenquihu was a beautiful village. Highly enjoyable to wander with many culinary delights – including the most delicious doughnuts you will ever try!

The guidebook describes it as thus: “This is the largest intermediate station on the railway used to be a division point where steam locomotives were maintained, prepared and refueled.” This time it even had nostalgic stairways;

Because of the railway, Fenquihu became the center of the area and is renowned for its old streets, railway lunch boxes, and bamboo. The stairways of the old street provide a nostalgic atmosphere. To enjoy the forest, visitors can take a walk on the circular trail around the village.

Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office

From Fenquihu I took a bus to the Alishan National Park. And from there I had an amazing trip; hiking, making friends, taking the sunrise train to Mount Ogasawara – an incredibly beautiful way to start the day – and all around enjoying the crisp mountain air.

Anyway, because I had befriended the lady who worked at the hotel, and she told me she could take me on some special hikes and routes; I decided to come back the next week. I wanted to enjoy the scenery again, and see what adventures and new routes awaited me.

On the 2nd trip, my companion took me on a hike to Lulingshan, which eventually reaches the Jade Mountain Trailhead. Jade Mountain is the tallest mountain in Taiwan, at 3952 metres high.

Another view of those majestic clouds

Arduous and fulfilling, with Mr. Titi, the colourful bird, spending most of his time diving into my bag to look for Peanut Butter.

Right after we had stopped to take photos at the Jade Mountain Trailhead, I grew wide-eyed with wonder at a climber descending who looked like some kind of Nepalese Sherpa.

We started uphill, and suddenly I felt out of breath. My chest seemed to tighten. I stopped, took food and water.

My companion was saying, ‘its not far, just over this hill’. That small distance suddenly felt like Everest.

I kept going, more for her sake than mine.

I became more and more dizzy, and was climbing the steps on my hands and knees.

Thankfully we ran into an elderly taiwanese couple who said they would escort me down to the Jade Mountain Trailhead, and I would meet my companion later.

Thank god for this couple. The man was so alive with the views he saw at every moment. Even though I felt awful, it was still as if I was walking amongst the clouds of heaven.

This man owned a Green Tea Store. Alishan Green Tea is the best in Taiwan. This was his adorable daughter

This man was 75 years old, fit as a fiddle, brought me countless pieces of Guava, and really stood for what I see as the quintessential element of the Taiwanese people; Goodness.

In his own small way, and in his pure joy of the Mountains, he had helped an Englishman stumbling about, out of breath. A 75-year old guardian angel.

Altitude Sickness happens a lot out here, but it isn’t nice. It hasn’t happened to me before, but has given me more respect for these mountains.

Will I go again? 100%

My friend, and her colourful companion

Talks with Students II

I was nervous the whole time from when I stepped out of my dorm! I was even worried about whether the Uber driver would let me ride — I remember I had trouble getting an Uber the day before my flight because I was wearing a mask. Two Ubers took one look at me and drove off.

I was more freaked out than the average person because I had a tickling cough that occurred at night so it was really stressful.

– Vanessa, a student at UCL

One aspect of social media that has been personally beneficial to me, in all this, has being able to contact those living abroad. I was fortunate enough to make some brilliant friends in my time in Asia, and through Zoom and Facebook I have been able to check on their welfare, whilst also gaining insights into how respective governments have responded to the pandemic.

Certain countries in East Asia have been praised immensely; focus has centered on their efforts at contact tracing – ‘test, trace, isolate’, and imposing early lockdowns. Viewing the actions of these governments through a western lens, I must admit, I found this aggressive approach a little, well, disturbing. Data was swiftly released online on the whereabouts of an infected Vietnamese woman in Hanoi; where she had dined for lunch, which streets she had visited, all following an hour-by-hour timeline throughout the day.

Taiwan has only had one death from the Coronavirus

The libertarian in me was shrieking at privacy laws being violated, but in all honesty the question is, what privacy laws?

How then, can this approach be navigated by overwhelmed Western countries trying to learn from the East, whilst simultaneously maintaining individual rights of privacy?

To hear a personal story on this, I have been able to contact a student at UCL. Vanessa, a student from Taiwan, came to London to study Arts and Sciences. Just before the U.K. government imposed lockdown, she took off for Taiwan; desperate to get home.

We talk about her experiences of flying, the lockdown and lessons to learn from the Taiwanese government.


Vanessa, Student at University College London


Hello Vanessa. You study at UCL. I heard you decided to leave for Taiwan before the lockdown was imposed. Can I ask what led to this decision?

V: Initially I just wanted to return home for the month-long Easter holiday, so I booked a return flight perhaps a week before UCL announced cancellation of teaching. However once UCL announced the cancellation and the cases began to rise, I became really anxious and decided that Taiwan was the safest place to be, so I was going home for a long while. I moved out of my dorm in the days before my flight; 18th of March.

In the light of the constantly circulating news, it must have been scary to board the plane. Can you tell me what the atmosphere was like at the airport? Was it busy/quiet, and were people being very careful about their proximity to others?

V: I was nervous the whole time from when I stepped out of my dorm! I was even worried about whether the Uber driver would let me ride — I remember I had trouble getting an Uber when I had to move stuff to my cousin’s house the day before my flight because I was wearing a mask. (Two Ubers took one look at me and drove off.)

Gatwick was super quiet, lots of shops were closed and there were no crowds as we walked around the shopping area on the way to the gate. Most people weren’t that cautious about social distancing, except when we got to the gate and it was mainly Taiwanese people. They took it very seriously and were prepped with PPE. I was more freaked out than the average person because I had a tickling cough that occurred at night so it was really stressful.


A worker in Taiwan

My family and I got a mass text that we were in the same area as sailors from an infected navy ship

I have read that Taiwan has been praised for its response to the pandemic. Do you feel safer in Taiwan than the UK? And what lessons could have been learnt by countries such as the UK?

For sure! I’ve never been so relieved to go home— at that time Taiwan only had 50 cases while the UK had over 1,000. Before I boarded, my friends sent me a QR code to fill out my health particulars online before I boarded, so that when I landed I would be allowed to bypass the long lines for health checks. I also got tested at the airport along with my friend because we both declared on the form that we had minor cold symptoms and wanted to be on the safe side. The process was surprisingly not intimidating and very efficient, I got out of the airport in a little over 2hrs, and headed home to begin my 14 day quarantine.

Some lessons that can be learnt from Taiwan’s example:

Tracing cases early on and containing them before community transmission gets out of hand. For example, my family and I got a mass text that we were in the same area as sailors from an infected navy. Their locations were posted publicly so people could take measures…

If you don’t have a suitable quarantine place for whatever reason, the gov. will provide a place. It’s pretty decent quality, despite the ruckus from that BBC article.


Taipei

My parents left me food on a tray outside the door daily

On your arrival into Taiwan from the UK, did you have to go into isolation for a period of time? If you did, can you tell me what that was like?

I definitely felt that I was in safe hands from the way the quarantine was carried out by the Taiwan CDC. I stayed in my own room the whole time, and my parents left me food on a tray outside the door daily. We all wore masks if they needed to speak to me at 1.5m distance. My mum screams if I accidentally get too close!

My phone signal was tracked as well so that I couldn’t leave or I would be fined. I received a packet of masks from the Gov. and special trash bags for my own use to avoid contaminating others.

After my quarantine I was free to leave the house, and I noticed a lot less people on the streets. Everyone wears masks; it’s mandatory to wear them on public transport. Stores check your temperature and spray your hands with alcohol before you can enter.



Taiwan is located only 130km from mainland China. Are you able to comment on the initial atmosphere after arriving home from the UK? Was there a lot of fear and panic ensuing in the country?

The week I arrived home was the most severe since the outbreak. The atmosphere was not panicked; more vigilant and cautious. There wasn’t much panic buying since masks were rationed from the start – right now every 2 weeks we can collect 9 masks; 1 mask costs 5NTD.

On a personal note, your studies have now been disrupted. Do you still plan to continue studying, and do you have plans to return to the UK?

Like all UCL first years, our exams/ assessments are canceled and replaced with one pass/fail capstone assessment. I plan to return for Second year this September, unless the situation is still terribly dangerous.


My phone signal was tracked as well so I couldn’t leave or I would be fined. I received a packet of masks from the Government and special trash bags for my own use to avoid contaminating others.


Finally, I was reading that Australia is supporting Taiwan’s return to the World Health Organisation (WHO). What is your opinion on Taiwan’s status in regards to this?

Taiwan has definitely received a lot of international support for attending the WHO conference, but as of yet the WHO isn’t budging and is unlikely to do so. Taiwan has been benefiting from a boost in global status thanks to mask diplomacy/healthcare, but once the pandemic starts to decline I wonder how quickly other nations will forget Taiwan’s role and what it offers for the global response. 



Once the pandemic starts to decline I wonder how quickly other nations will forget Taiwan’s role and what it offers for the global response.

Thank you, Vanessa. Some very insightful answers.

Next time, I hope to talk to a Filmmaker in China.

Until then, ciao.